Lutyen's stimulating Mughal capital
The story of India's past from the 12th-20th centuries remains immortalised in the well preserved monuments and exquisite gardens of Delhi which became India's capital in 1931
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| Red Fort: landmark heritage monument |
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ith an archaeological heritage dating back 2,500 years, Delhi, with its dazzling array of monuments, forts, tombs, palaces, mosques, temples and churches has as much to offer as India’s other business tourist entrepots such as Jaipur, Hyderabad, Lucknow, Chennai, Mumbai, and Kolkata. Indeed for over a century during British rule, Mumbai and Kolkata were the more popular imperial strongholds than this northern city which stands on the ruins and remains of several Mughal dynasties, and is indelibly Islamic in character on account of its historical legacy of majestic specimens of Muslim architecture. But in 1911, a decision to shift the capital from Kolkata to Delhi inaugurated a new period in this city’s history, transforming it into the modern capital that is New Delhi — a bustling metropolis populated by celebrated politicians, leaders, lawmakers, intellectuals, creative artistes, writers, and other national personalities. Its character now is undeniably modern, cosmopolitan, and global, even as the story of India’s past from the 12th to the 20th centuries remains immortalised in the well preserved tombs, monuments, and exquisite gardens that lend shape and contours to this city which officially became the capital of India in 1931.
Geographically, the National Capital Region (NCR) aka Delhi (population: 13 million) — the third most populous city in the country after Mumbai (16 million) and Kolkata (14 million) — is sited on the Indo-Gangetic plain flanked by Uttar Pradesh in the east and Haryana on the other three sides. To the south-east of Delhi flows the Yamuna — one of the most sacred rivers in India. The region experiences extreme weather conditions with harsh, forbidding summers (May-August) when the mercury rises up to 45°C and bone chilling winter months (December-February) when the temperature could dip to 2°C. However the best time to visit Delhi is October-November, when the temperature remains constant at a moderate 30°C and occasional rains cool the city.
All in all, Delhi which includes Old Delhi, the part of the city built by Emperor Shah Jahan in the 17th century, as well as New Delhi, which boasts some of the finest examples of 20th century archi-tecture, is a unique and stimulating blend of past and present, old and new, ancient and modern. Over time, it has evolved a distinctly secular character: here mosques and temples coexist with gurudwaras, churches, and edifices like the lotus-shaped Baha’i House of Worship, making it a city rich in religious and cultural diversity.
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| India Gate: French-inspired war memorial |
The history of the national capital is colourful and interesting. Upto the 7th century AD this region was under the rule of the Maurya, Kushan, and Gupta dynasties. Following the fall of the Gupta kings, the region came into the possession of Rajput Tomara leader Anang Pal who established the towns of Anangpur and Lalkot. Later in 1191 AD, Mohammed of Ghor mounted a campaign to seize the stronghold of the Chauhan Rajputs, Qila Rai Pithora. After an initial setback, Mohammed succeeded in routing the Rajputs and killing their leader Prithviraj Chauhan. He left his conquest in the hands of his slave Qutub-ud-din Aibak who went on to become the first sultan of Delhi after whom one of the city’s most distinctive landmarks, the Qutub Minar, is named.
After Aibak and his lesser-known successors Iltutmish and Balban, four other dynasties — the Khiljis, Tughlaks, Sayyids, and Lodis reigned over the region between 1206-1526 AD. Subsequently Babar invaded the country and established the great and enduring Mughal dynasty which ruled India for the next three centuries. Akbar the Great is also of the same lineage. The formation of Delhi city is ascribed to Babar’s descendent Shah Jahan who ruled during the 17th century. The Mughals built some of the greatest monuments of modern India including Shahjahanabad, the seventh city of Delhi, Taj Mahal in Agra, Red Fort in old Delhi, and the Jama Masjid among other imposing structures.
While the Mughals managed to preserve their sovereignty over Delhi until the end of the 18th century, their imperial sway was already experiencing gradual attrition. The arrival of British traders marked a change in the city’s history. The early 1800s witnessed the residency of the first British administrators and their associates like Sir David Ochterlony, William Fraser, and James Skinner and the period of Mughal rule was declared more or less over by the time Bahadur Shah ascended the throne in 1837. The Sepoy Mutiny of 1857, which led to the execution of the sons of Bahadur Shah and the exile of the emperor himself, paved the way for the British to take over the administration of India, and thus began the British Raj.
Though Delhi was the capital of the Mughal rulers, under the British Raj, Kolkata was the capital of the country. The decision to shift the capital from Kolkata to Delhi was taken in 1911 due to increasing disturbances there. A major shift in spirit and ethos was ushered in when Delhi became the official capital of India in 1931. Two British architects — Edward Lutyens and Herbert Baker — are credited with shaping New Delhi around a geometrical pattern of wide tree-lined avenues and boulevards, named after famous people and past rulers with elegantly designed government buildings.
Contemporary Delhi showcases several important heritage monuments. Among them Red Fort; Safdarjung tomb; Purana Qila; Lodi gardens; Qutub Minar; Jama Masjid are the most famous. The British also left their architectural stamp in the buildings they constructed in Civil Lines, North Delhi, which blend features of Victorian architecture with the already established Indo-Saracenic style. Some of the well-known include Coronation Durbar Site, a 15 metre high statue of George V; Old Secretariat, built in 1912; Flag Staff Tower, the Mutiny Memorial and Metcalfe House. North Delhi is also the location of one of the city’s main universities, the Delhi University, and its satellite colleges and institutions, like St. Stephen’s, Hindu College, and the Shriram College of Commerce.
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| Rashtrapati Bhavan: Lutyen’s masterpiece |
The repair and restoration of Delhi’s monuments is a full-time, on-going activity for both the Archaeological Survey of India and Delhi’s department of archaeology. Says Neta Bali, secretary for art and culture: "These sites have immense tourism potential, for their heritage value. We have recently identified 20 other monuments for restoration. They include the Ghalib Haveli (in the walled city), the Lodi tombs, Turkman Gate, and the 18th century Mahal of Quddisia Begum — wife of Ahmed Shah Abdali. In addition to the restoration work, we are also planning to develop these sites into places of tourist interest, through construction of special complexes with handicraft shops, restaurants and landscaped gardens. We believe it is very important to pay special attention to India’s archaeological heritage."
While in Delhi visit the majestic Rashtrapati Bhavan, Lutyen’s masterpiece with 16 acres of rose gardens flanked by the North and South Block secretariat buildings; Rajpath — venue of the annual Republic Day parade — leads out of this avenue towards India Gate — a 42 metre high stone arch designed by Lutyens, modelled on the French Arc de Triomphe — a war memorial in honour of soldiers who died during World War II. The country’s seat of power Parliament House aka Sansad Bhavan is also located here. Surrounding this elegant esplanade, which also houses two of Delhi’s most important museums — the National Gallery of Modern Art and the National Museum at Janpath — is an unfolding pattern of connecting streets that establish the formal layout of the city. This is also Delhi’s green belt, with landscaped roundabouts and broad roads flanked with an assortment of arjuna, tamarind, neem, pipal, coral, and jacaranda trees, and bright pink bougainvillea creepers.
The imposing red sandstone Jama Masjid is one of the few mosques in the country that women can enter. Its courtyard has a capacity for 25,000 people. From the top of the southern minaret one can get an awesome, panoramic view of Old Delhi and the Red Fort. In the north-east corner is a small pavilion containing relics of Prophet Mohammed, which attracts pilgrims from across the country. A stroll around the masjid area at night, when an Arabian Night atmosphere envelopes it, would excite the most blasé tourist. Against the silhouette of the mosque are teeming bazaars, enigmatic hawkers selling itar and incense and superb local restaurants — Kareem is the most well known — offering authentic mughlai biryani and kababs.
The Red Fort, Emperor Shah Jahan’s seat of power, dates back to the peak years of Mughal rule. An elaborate symphony in sandstone, the walls of the fort extend for 2 km, marking out an irregular octagon, with their height varying from 18-33 metres. Inside the fort is the filigreed marble Diwan-I-Am (hall of public audiences), the Diwan-I-Khas (hall of private audiences), Royal Hammam, Moti Masjid, Shahi Burj, Khas Mahal, Rang Mahal and Mumtaz Mahal. Attend the son et lumiere show staged every evening unfolding the turbulent history of the fort right from its construction to the decline and fall of the last of the Mughals.
In central Delhi a favourite destination of astronomers and amateur stargazers is the man-made sundial, Jantar Mantar, located within Connaught Place. Built by an erstwhile ruler of Jaipur in 1710, it’s the oldest observatory in the city.
Humayun’s Tomb
built in the mid-16th century is a landmark that is perhaps the most perfect representation of the exquisite proportions and symmetry of Mughal architecture. It reportedly took about 300 craftsmen from Persia to construct the monument.  |
| Qutub Minar |
The Qutub Minar, in the now fashionable Mehrauli area of South Delhi was begun by Qutub-ud-din Aibak in 1199 AD and completed by his successor Iltutmish in 1236 AD. It is approximately 73 metres high, with five distinct storeys, each marked by a projecting balcony. Inside, there is a 367-step winding staircase leading to the third storey balcony. But the tower has for a long time been closed to visitors following a stampede in 1981 that led to the tragic deaths of several visiting schoolchildren. The outer walls of the Minar are adorned with inscriptions from the Koran, and legend has it that the tower was erected to cast the shadow of God over East and West.
While Delhi offers its visitors a history lesson they will never forget, there’s a lot here that’s of commercial and material interest as well. The Pragati Maidan complex, off Mathura Road was built in 1982 and is the venue for all major trade fairs in the capital, and the annual national book fair. The shopping experience in Delhi is by no means restricted to modern malls and arcades. Instead, you could go on a binge in chic boutiques and specialist shops, scattered amidst crumbling ruins and monuments of the Mughal era in the lanes and alleys of Shahpur Jat, Lado Sarai, Hauz Khas village and Mehrauli.
Another high point of Delhi is the Bahai Temple, also known as the Lotus Temple. Sited east of Siri this lotus shaped building is set among serene pools and gardens and adherents of any faith are free to visit the temple.
The National Museum,
built in 1960 is one of Delhi’s most prestigious institu-tions. Located on the main thoroughfare of Janpath, a stone’s throw from India Gate, the museum’s two storey library and galleries contain a host of rare antiquities, dating back to the Indus Valley civilization. Other museums in the city include The Nehru Memorial Museum, The National Gallery of Modern Art, Shankar’s International Doll’s Museum, the National Rail Museum, the National Museum of Natural History.
Accomodation.
Top-end: Maurya Sheraton (Rs.9,750-11,000), The Oberoi (Rs.13,500), Hotel Kanishka (Rs. 4,000-5,000), Hyatt Regency (Rs.6,250 onwards), Le Meridien (Rs.9,900-10,800), Claridges (Rs.7,875-9,000). Mid-range: Hotel Gold Regency (Rs.950-1,850), Hotel Ajanta (Rs.745-845), YMCA Tourist Hotel (Rs.900-1,150), YWCA International Guest House (Rs.800-1,100). Budget: Kailash Guest House (Rs.110-250), Hotel Namaskar (Rs.150-400), Krishna Hotel (Rs.300-350), International Youth Hostel (Rs.300-700).Organised tours.
Delhi sprawls across a large land area and hence taking a city tour makes sense. Two major organisations — the India Tourism Development Corporation (ITDC) and the Delhi Tourism Corporation offer guided tours. A five-hour morning tour of Delhi is priced at Rs.150 and covers the Lotus temple, Qutb Minar, Humayun’s tomb, India Gate, Jantar Mantar and the Lakshmi Narayan temple. Other longer duration tours are also on offer. For details contact the tourist offices at Ph: 23322336/ 37.Excursions
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| Taj Mahal, Agra |
Easily accessible along modern expressways and highways from Delhi are numerous day and weekend excursion options. Among them: Mathura (140 km), a bustling religious centre for Hindus, believed to be the birthplace of Lord Krishna. Agra (200 km) is synonymous with the Taj Mahal, India’s most famous building sited on the banks of river Yamuna. Built by emperor Shah Jahan as a memorial for his second wife Mumtaz Mahal who died at child birth in 1631, the construction of the Taj took more than two decades to complete. Other monuments worthy of a visit are the Agra Fort, Jehangir’s Palace, Akbar’s Mausoleum and Musamman Burj.
Jaipur (230 km), is the world famous pink city of India, so called because of the vibrant colour of the buildings in the old quarter. Designed according to civic construction principles of the shilpa shastra, the city is laid out in rectangular blocks within a surrounding wall and five majestic gates. The Hawa Mahal or Palace of the Winds built by Maharaja Sawai Pratap Singh is Jaipur’s most famous monument and a stunning example of Rajput artistry. Other interesting sights are the Jantar Mantar, the first observatory in the country, adjacent to the City Palace and Nahargarh or Tiger Fort, which overlooks the city from a sheer ridge to the north.
Other than the above, short excursions to the charming hill stations of Simla (250 km), Mussoorie (340 km) and Dalhousie (650 km) among others, can revive the spirits of visitors in Delhi’s intense summer heat.
Meenakshi Venkat