Leisure & Travel

New tourism destinations of Andhra Pradesh

In a state better known for farmers’ suicides and the naxalite movement, a determined effort is being made to create a new income stream from tourism. Five new tourism destinations have been recently promoted

A large part of this record Rs.45 crore tourism budget has been invested in developing the infrastructure in five new tourism destinations in the state (pop. 76 million). In early March a group of journalists (including this writer) and seven travel agents from Bangalore were taken on a conducted tour of the state capital (which is also being given a makeover) and the new tourism destinations.

The capital of the state of Andhra Pradesh these now conjoined cities are an important centre of Islamic culture and studies. The city’s famous landmarks include the massive Charminar (180 ft tall and 96 ft wide), Mecca Masjid, Purani Haveli, Salar Jung Museum, Nehru Zoological Park, and the Birla Mandir.

The Andhra Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (APTDC) has recently introduced a range of water sports in Hussain Sagar lake which also hosts the largest monolithic Buddha statue (56 ft tall, 350 tonnes) in the country. Parasailing (Rs.300), water scooter (Rs.50), kayaking (Rs.50) and other aqua sports are offered. Lumbini Park adjoining the lake houses another new introduction, the Lumbini Laserium where visitors are treated to a 45-minute laser show, featuring a short film on the history of Hyderabad and an impressive musical dancing fountain which attracts over 1,800 visitors daily (entry price: Rs.30).

Accommodation. Top-end: Taj Krishna (Rs.5,520-23,000 per night); Taj Residency (Rs.2,600-7,500); Hotel Viceroy (Rs.2,200-2,900). Mid-range: APTDC’s Punnami Taramathi Baradari (Rs.475-950); Hotel Megacity (Rs.375-450). Budget: Royal Hotel (Rs.130-230); Hotel Suhail (Rs.180-250); New Asian Hotel (Rs.100-150).

Hyderabad is famous for its eateries offering variations of Mughlai-style biryanis of spiced meat, vegetables and rice, haleem (pounded spiced wheat with mutton) and kebabs. However visitors should note that the local cuisine is heavily spiced with chilli.

Excursions. Numerous day excursion options are available ex Hyderabad. Golconda Fort (16 km) dating back to the early 16th century is a massive citadel built on a 400 ft high granite hill and surrounded by crenellated ramparts. The unique feature of the fort is its built-in acoustics — even the smallest sound from the grand portico echoes across the entire fort complex. A 60-minute son et lumiere show (Rs.40) offers an entertaining way to learn the history of Hyderabad and Golconda. Durgam Cheruvu (18 km) aka secret lake, is a placid water body surrounded by hills. It’s a perfect setting for a cool boat ride amidst serene environs. Shilaparamam (20 km) is a crafts village sprawled over 30 acres of rugged rocks, roaring waterfalls and soft lawns.

Nagarjunasagar and Nagarjunakonda

Sited 150 km from Hyderabad is the best of the new tourist destinations developed by APTDC. It boasts the largest masonry dam in the country and the third largest man-made lake in the world, which spans an area of over 60,000 sq km.

A major attraction here is the Nagarjunakonda island museum which has been totally renovated and reshaped as a Buddhist vihara (monastery). Of the 20 major Buddhist sites scattered across the country (Sarnath, Sanchi, Bodhgaya etc), Nagarjunakonda is the least known. The site was originally unearthed in 1926 by A.R. Saraswathi, a researcher in the Archaeological Survey of India (ASI). Subsequent excavations brought to light a number of Buddhist monuments including the Sriparvata and Vijayapuri temples where Acharya Nagarjuna, the founding father of Mahayana Buddhism lived and preached.

Further excavations by ASI unearthed a university, monasteries, sacrificial altars, royal baths, viharas, chaityas and mandapams as well as marble carvings and sculptures depicting the life and times of the Buddha. The museum houses a meticulously catalogued collection of Buddhist relics.

Ethipothala falls: shimmering waters

Accommodation. APTDC’s Punnami Vihar sited on the west bank of the river which offers eight luxury air-conditioned suites (Rs.800) and an equal number of double rooms (Rs.700) is the best accommodation option. Moreover a few independent hotels offer rudimentary accommodation. Vijay Vihar Complex (Rs.400-600); Project House (Rs.300-500); Youth Hostel (Rs.15-25 per bed in the dormitory) and Hotel Vijayapuri South (Rs.600 (a/c room) and Rs.350 (non-a/c)).

Excursions. Nagarjunasagar Srisailam Sanctuary (30 km) is the largest tiger reserve in the country and sprawls over an area of 3,568 sq. km, across the Nallamalai hills, famous for their rugged mountain terrain, winding gorges and deep valleys with dry deciduous forests. The scrub and bamboo thickets in the sanctuary provide shelter to an array of wild animals including the tiger, leopard, deer, sloth bear, hyena, jungle cat, palm civet, bonnet macaque and pangolin. The best time to visit is October-March.

Ethipothala falls sited a mere 11 km from the dam is a scenic picnic spot. The shimmering waters of river Chandravanka — a tributary of the Krishna — cascade 70 ft down into a lagoon amid breathtaking scenery. Ethipothala also has a crocodile breeding centre. Close to the waterfalls on the banks of the river is a quaint temple dedicated to Dattatreya Swami which attracts thousands of devotees during the Shivaratri festival.

Accommodation. APTDC’s newly established Ethipothala guesthouse located atop a hill facing the waterfalls offers air-conditioned rooms and cottages (Rs.275-700).

Srisailam

Located amid thick forests of the Nallamalai hills, in the south-eastern corner of Andhra Pradesh, Srisailam is the site of an ancient, exotic temple. The temple complex is one of the 12 Jyotir Linga shrines and houses one of the 18 most sacred goddess shrines aka shakti pithas. This unique combination of shrines in one complex makes Srisailam one of the most sacred pilgrimage centres of Shaivaite Hindus. Shiva is worshipped here in his form of Lord Mallikarjuna, and Shakti, his consort, as Sri Bharamaramba Devi. The images of these deities, believed to be over 1,000 years old, are enshrined in the temple built by the Vijayanager king Harihara Raya (circa 1404 AD). The temple complex is surrounded by a fortress-like wall about 20 ft tall, 6 ft wide and 2,120 ft in perimeter. Built in 1520, the wall has 3,200 stones, each weighing over a tonne, and is decorated with fine relief sculptures depicting episodes from the Mahabharata, Ramayana and other Hindu epics.

Patalganga silent and deep

Accommodation. APTDC has recently inaugurated two new hotels equipped with all the mod cons. The Punnami Ganga Sadan (Rs.475-600 per night) on the periphery of the town in lush environs offers 40 a/c rooms and 15 luxury suites. A garden restaurant and an indoor convention hall have been constructed to attract business travellers. The Punnami Gowri Sadan (Rs.250-650) sited close to the temple downtown offers 45 a/c rooms, 30 luxury suites and a vegetarian restaurant. Apart from these two there are numerous small guesthouses, dormitories and temple halls which offer rudimentary facilities.

Puttaparthi

Sited southwest of the state about 320 km from Hyderabad are Puttaparthi (pop. 25,000) and Prashanthi Nilayam the spiritual abode of Sri Sathya Sai Baba, renowned religious and social reformer, who has a huge following in India and abroad. Though the ashram is visited by an average 3,000 pilgrims daily, the premises are immaculately clean. Within the ashram, Prashanthi Mandir built in 1949 is the main prayer hall; Ganesh Mandir is a quaint shrine located at the entrance; Sai Kulwant Hall is a huge chamber with a seating capacity of 20,000 and the venue of Baba’s discourses; the Spiritual Museum exhibits the rise of spirituality in man’s evolution.

Accommodation. Most visitors reside in the ashram — a small clean village with all amenities. Accommodation is basic but clean, comfortable and cheap and is allotted on a first-come-first-served basis. Other options in the town are: Sri Sathya Sai Village (Rs.750-1,250) and Hotel Sai Sree Nivas (Rs.175-350).

Situated amid the rugged hills of southern Andhra Pradesh bordering Karnataka, and 450 km from Hyderabad is Lepakshi, renowned for its Shiva, Vishnu and Veerabhadra temples decorated with mural paintings from the Vijayanagar era.

Veerabhadra Temple, Lepakshi: poignant history

Another must-see monument at Lepakshi is the massive Nandi (bull) sculpture near the Veerabhadra temple. The reclining 30 ft long and 16 ft high idol, towards the north-east of the Veerabhadra temple is among the largest Nandi monoliths in India. The Parsavanatha Temple, north of Lepakshi, enshrines a late Chalukyan style (11th century) image of Parsavanatha Thirthankara before an undulating serpent and attracts thousands of Jain pilgrims every year.

Where to stay. Lepakshi is still largely undeveloped in terms of tourism infrastructure. The best accommodation option is the APTDC Abhya Griha guesthouse (Rs.200-450).

Excursions. Ex Lepakshi there are several day trip options. Thimmamma Marimanu is a small village with the world’s largest banyan tree (recorded in the Guinness Book of World Records, 1989), fanning out over 5 acres. Penukonda (50 km), the erstwhile capital and summer palace — Gagana Mahal — of the Vijayanagar empire and Babayya Darga, a monument built to foster communal harmony, are worth visiting.

Tadipatri

An important pilgrim centre, Tadipatri is 120 km from Lepakshi and 350 km from Hyderabad. This quaint town has two ancient temples viz, the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple and the Chintala Venkataramana. Popular among devout Shaivaite and Vaishnavaite Hindus, they attract thousands of pilgrims every year and have been painstakingly restored to showcase their intricately carved majestic gopurams and musical pillars, which resonate with musical notes when tapped gently with a wooden stick.

The unique feature of the Bugga Ramalingeswara temple is the entire Siva Purana carved on its tall stone walls in elaborate detail. The restoration has made these inscriptions clear so that visitors can read the legend. The temple is known for its main deity, a Shiva lingam placed on a pedestal, which is constantly supplied water from a small spring. The Chintala Venkataramana Temple with its lofty gopura, located about one km from the town overlooking the Pennar river is an awesome example of the Vijayanagar style of architecture. The temple built in a combination of black granite and grey sandstone, is yet incomplete. Legend has it that Lord Venkateshwara of Tirupati appeared in the dream of the main architect and ordered him to abandon work.

Accommodation. Deep in the hinterland of Ananthpur district, Tadipatri offers limited accommodation options. APTDC’s newly constructed centrally air-conditioned Punnami Hotel is the best in town. Affordably priced at Rs.250-450, it offers a restaurant, party hall and 20 rooms.

Mahanandi

Three hundred and twenty km south of Hyderabad, Mahanandi is one of the nine most important Nandi shrines in the country. Sited amid the Nallamalai hills in Kurnool district, this ancient temple is dedicated to Sri Mahanandiswara Swamy, enshrined in the form of a lingam. An interesting feature of the temple is its five perennial, crystal clear water springs.

Mahanandi main tank: inflow outflow mystery

Accommodation. The only recommended accommodation option in Mahanandi is APTDC’s newly built Punnami Hotel (Rs.200-275) contiguous to the temple. It is set against a scenic backdrop of green hills. Other options are rooms and halls constructed by the temple trust which are available free of cost on a first-come-first-served basis.

Belum Caves

Belum is the newest destination developed by APTDC. Sited in the limestone plains of Kurnool district, its caves present explorers with several natural wonders including 4,000-year-old stalactite and stalagmite formations. Belum is derived from the Sanskrit word bilum meaning cave. With its passages extending over a length of 3.25 km, this is the second longest natural cave system in the Indian subcontinent after Krem Um Lawan cave (21.5 km) in Meghalaya.

Belum stalactites: natural wonders

Several landmarks have been identified and marked in the caves. Simhadwaram — an arch with stalactite formations in the shape of a lion head; the Kotilingam Chamber contains thousands of stalactite formations not unlike shiva lingams. The Patalaganga is a small perennial stream which disappears into the depths of the earth. The stream is believed to meet a well in Belum village, 2 km away. The fluctuation of the water level in the well is linked to the level in the caves. The most recently discovered chamber is the Saptasvarala guha or musical chamber. Its unique feature is the metallic sounds the stalactites make when struck with a wooden stick or knuckles.

The caves are open on all days from 10 a.m to 5 p.m and a conducted tour is priced at a reasonable Rs.25 per head. Visitors are not allowed to venture into the caves unaccompanied. Trained local guides employed by APTDC escort groups of 10-20 at a time.

Getting there. Belum is well connected by road with all major cities in AP and Bangalore (270 km). The nearest railway station is Kurnool.

Accommodation. The only residential accommodation in the vicinity is APTDC’s Punnami Hotel, which offers a dormitory of 32 beds (Rs.40 per person) and has a multi-cuisine restaurant.

For further details and bookings visit www.aptourism.com or call 080-5113 6373 (Bangalore), 040-2345 0179 (Hyderabad), 044-2538 1213 (Chennai), 022-2207 2245 (Mumbai), 033-2281 3679 (Kolkata).