Leisure & Travel

Colours and corals of the Maldives

With sea levels reportedly rising by one-two inches per year because of global warming, there’s a strong possibility that many of the 1,196 islands constituting the Maldives may disappear underwater in the near future. Advice to adventurers: visit sooner than later

If you are a member of the growing tribe of adventurers worldwide interested in checking out the least explored domain on planet Earth — the exotic flora and fauna beneath the oceans which cover two-thirds of the world’s surface — you better pack your bags for the Islamic Republic of Maldives (pop. 300,000) fast. With sea levels reportedly rising by one-two inches per year because of global warming which is steadily melting the polar ice caps, there is a strong possibility that many of the 1,196 islands and atolls constituting the Maldives may disappear underwater. Therefore for adventurers keen to experience the indescribable colours and coral reefs of the Maldives — a mere half hour’s flight from Thiruvananthapuram — the advice is visit sooner than later.

A garland of emerald islands scattered across the Indian Ocean, tourism and hospitality is the republic’s premier industry. Last year an estimated 750,000 tourists from around the world and 65,000 from India checked into the 87 island resorts of the Maldives, described by legendary traveller Marco Polo as the "flower of the Indies".

Local people refer to the Maldives as dhivehi raajje which translates into "the island kingdom", but ancient traders from India referred to it as Maladiv — the Sanskrit term for ‘garland of islands’ — and through the Portuguese this name was adopted by other European languages. The natives call themselves dhivehin, meaning "islander" and speak their own unique language Dhivehi.

The formation and history of the Maldives is shrouded in mystery. How exactly the exquisite chain of islands surfaced is unclear, as is the total count of how many islands constitute the republic. Estimates put the figure at 1,196, divided into 26 natural atolls, though it’s impossible to arrive at an exact number because with the rise and fall in ocean levels, some islands disappear beneath the sea only to resurface, and some even split into two or more parts. However of the 1,196 islands only 202 are inhabited.

The unique feature of this archipelago is the harmonious relationship of its people with their environment. Maldivians deeply respect nature, revering it as their source of life and livelihood, while being well aware that nature can be a capricious and volatile force with astounding powers to bless or destroy. Maldivians are learned about climate and weather and adapt their fishing, farming and sailing programmes accordingly. They have developed their own complex calendar based on the study of stars and waxing and waning of the moon. The year is divided into seasons called nakaiy, the word having its origins in the Sanskrit word nakshatra meaning star or heavenly body.

A string of tropical islands blessed with clear waters and exotic fish living off its coral reefs, the Maldives is hot and humid for most of the year. Temperatures are usually in the thirties and rarely drop below 260 C. Refreshing sea breezes however, make the weather very pleasant for the better part of the day. The year is divided into two main seasons according to the monsoons; the north-east blows feebly from November to April, when after some strong squalls the sky turns an unbelievable blue and the sun shines from 6.00 a.m to 6.00 p.m. The wet south-west monsoon blows more strongly from May to November.

A globally renowned mecca of beach tourism, paradoxically the republic is a conservative and deeply religious (Islamic) nation. Visiting Arab traders introduced Islam to the Maldives in 1153-54 AD, and it was an Arab who converted the Buddhist king of the time Theemugey Maha Kaliminja to the revealed religion. Legend has it that a Muslim trader Abu al Barakaath won over the people by exorcising a demon god Rannamaari who emerged from the sea every full moon night, demanding the sacrifice of a young virgin. The king was so impressed that he converted and persuaded his subjects to follow suit. A more political interpretation of these events is that local rulers converted to Islam because they realised that they would be unable to hold Buddhist Sri Lanka at arm’s length without the support of powerful Islamic regimes in South India and the Indian Ocean.

Tourism, which has brought prosperity to the Maldives (per capita income: $2,345) is a relatively new industry in this tiny country. The first tourists arrived here in 1972 when an Italian operator opened up a resort village on the island of Kurumba in Male, the tiny capital of the Maldives. The seat of government and centre of trade, commerce, business, health and education, Male is constantly buzzing with the sounds and activities of its 75,000 people who make up almost one-third of the population of the republic. Quaint, and densely populated, Male nevertheless boasts clean and tidy streets with mosques, markets, a maze of tiny alleys, all with their own peculiar charm.

One of the tiniest national capitals (1.7 sq. km) worldwide, Male is too small even to accommodate the chartered jets that bring tourists to the country. Its airport is on the neighbouring island of Hulhule. This long, thin stretch of land serves the function of a natural aircraft carrier permanently anchored in the sea. At the jetty contiguous to the airport, motorised launches wait to disperse tourists to Male and the surrounding resort islands.

Apart from the sea, beaches and water sports, Male has a few modest tourist attractions including the National Museum, which houses untidy exhibits of the sultans’ belongings and a smattering of legendary explorer Thor Heyerdahl’s archaeological discoveries — many of the ancient stone carvings and figurines are featured in his book The Maldive Mystery. Contiguous to the museum is the scenic Sultan Park. Also worth visiting is the imposing Islamic Centre and Grand Friday Mosque which dominate the city’s skyline.

The male fish market and the local bazaar are alive with noise and bustle with vendors flocking at the crack of dawn. While dhonis from all corners of the country unload dried fish, fresh fruits and vegetables from the atolls here, others load everything from foodstuff to construction materials. Overlooking the Hukuru Miskiiy market is Mulee-aage, a palace built in 1906 by Sultan Mohamed Shamsuddeen III. With its wrought iron gates, fretwork friezes on its roof edges and well-tended gardens the palace was intended for his son, but the Sultan was deposed. During World War II, vegetables were grown in its garden to help relieve food shortages. It became the president’s official residence when Maldives became a republic in 1953 and remained so until 1994, when the new Presidential Palace was built. Currently Mulee-aage houses the president’s office.

Seenu (Addu Atoll) is the second largest city of the Maldives, and the resort here is the best base from which to visit indigenous Maldivian communities. The Addu people are fiercely independent, speak a different language and at one time even tried to secede from the republic.

The vast majority of visitors come to the Maldives on package tours, staying put on one of the 87 resort islands. Most resorts are in the three atolls closest to the capital — North Male, South Male and Ari. Fringed with shimmering sands, the blue sea and swaying palms, the resorts offer excellent diving, snorkeling and surfing facilities. Beneath the warm waters is an abundance of marine life — exotic fish in all colours of the rainbow and other marine species inhabiting the coral reefs. Despite their apparent similarity, the island resorts differ considerably in comfort, cuisine, clientele, character and suitability for various excursions and activities.

Tourism in the Maldives is a carefully managed industry with a detailed master plan to promote the submarine environment and the Robinson Crusoe holidays as major attractions. The republic’s tourism promotion policy targets elite, dollar-rich leisure tourists. Lack of local resources make it mandatory to import virtually everything, from furniture to fresh vegetables, so the Maldives cannot compete on price. The strategy has been to develop a limited number of quality resorts, each on its own island, free from traffic, crime and pollution.

The result is a unique environment where visitors can roam freely on tiny islands in swimwear, almost like it was privately owned. Resorts in the Maldives woo tourists with promises of beaches and balmy evenings, azure skies and turquoise lagoons. The beach is the main focus for scuba divers, windsurfers and underwater sports enthusiasts, who throng to the atolls to explore its fabulous reefs and wealth of marine life. This is definitely not a destination for low budget backpackers or amateur anthropologists travelling independently and living native lifestyles. In fact there is little or no contact between the tourists and the local people, except at the tea stalls and tourist shops of Male.

The Maldives is perhaps best known to most people as a diver’s paradise. Spectacular dive sites coexist with high-quality accommodation and excellent service, placing them among the most highly rated worldwide. The unique beauty of the Maldivian underwater world is doubly appreciated by divers because of its high visibility (sometimes even at depths of 50 metres), the multitude of exotic marine fauna and flora, and warm temperatures (25-30o C) throughout the year.

Fish Head Dive aka Mushimasmin-gali Thila, is one of the world’s finest dive sites. Its steep sides are spectacular, with multi-level ledges, overhangs and caves supporting sea fans, anemones and black coral. The fish life includes fusiliers, large napoleons, barracuda, and the much- prized grey reef sharks.

Spectacular submarine locations apart, the islands offer a world of other leisure activities — windsurfing, catamaran sailing, canoeing, water skiing, wake-boarding, ringo-riding, banana-riding, submarine-diving, jet-skiing, badmintion, and beach volley ball. If none of these appeal to you, just laze around and gaze at the clear blue skies through fragrant bougainvillaea, frangipani and hibiscus flowers. And chances are that the spa resorts which distinguish the group of islands will appeal to you. Among the finest in the world, each resort combines the highest standards of luxury and service with seductive spa treatments for health and indulgence.

Getting there. No prior visa is required to enter the Republic of Maldives. Entry permits are issued on arrival at designated ports of entry, based on immigration requirements. The largest airport is Hulhule, which is about 30 minutes by air from Trivandrum and 45 minutes from Cochin.

Accommodation. With the delicate coral reef and ecosystem endangered by mass tourism, official policy of the Maldives is to deliberately encourage high-end tourism. However some mid-range accommodation options are available (see box).