Leisure & Travel

The other side of Dubai

Contemporary UAE is one the world’s fastest growing tourist destinations. It offers visitors sun, sand, sea, sports, unbeatable shopping, top-class hotels and restaurants, intriguing traditional culture, and a safe and welcoming environment

The emirates don’t offer much in terms of surviving historical or heritage monuments. Some historical ruins of the UAE — Rumeilah near Al Ain, Al Madam, Al Thuqaibah, Qarn Bint Saud and Hili — indicate that the region was inhabited by nomadic tribes circa 1000-300 BC. Recorded history however is available only for the past two-three centuries. Hitherto known the Trucial States, they were placed under British protection in 1892.

In 1952 the Trucial Council, comprising the rulers of seven sheikhdoms, was established with the objective of adoption of common administrative, economic and development policies. This council later evolved into a federation of emirates.

The discovery of crude oil and petroleum reserves in 1958 beneath the coastal waters of Abu Dhabi, the largest sheikdom of UAE, transformed the landscape and socio-economic profile of the country. Commercial exploitation of crude oil began in 1962, ushering in unprecedented prosperity in the region.

In January 1968, London announced its intention of withdrawing British military forces from the area by 1971. In March 1968 the Trucial States teamed with neighbouring Bahrain and Qatar to form the Federation of Arab Emirates. The intention was to create a federation to encompass the entire gulf region. But the interests of Bahrain and Qatar proved to be incompatible with those of the smaller sheikhdoms, and both seceded from the Federation in August 1971 to become separate independent nations.

In July 1971 representatives of six Trucial States (Abu Dhabi, Dubai, Sharjah, Umm al-Qaiwain, Ajman and Fujairah) wrote a federal Constitution and formed the United Arab Emirates while terminating the federation’s special treaty with UK. Thus UAE became independent on December 2, 1971. The last sheikhdom, Ra’s al-Khaimah, joined the United Arab Emirates in February 1972.

Today UAE is one of the world’s fastest growing tourist destinations. The country offers visitors sun, sand, sea, sports, unbeatable shopping, top-class hotels and restaurants, intriguing traditional culture, and a safe and welcoming environment. Unsurprisingly it attracted over 5 million foreign visitors in the year 2004-05 — twice the number that visited India.

Climate. The best time to visit UAE is from October-March when the weather is cool and hospitable. Daytime temperatures generally don’t rise above 240 C and nights can get quite cold with mercury dipping to 130 C. April-September months are hot and humid.

Abu Dhabi Corniche: marvellously engineered

Architecturally, Abu Dhabi is an aesthetic blend of domes and minarets of traditional mosques and gleaming futuristic skyscrapers. Tree-lined boulevards, manicured roundabouts, dazzling fountains and extensive parks soften the cityscape. A short distance from the city centre is the marvellously engineered Abu Dhabi Corniche, an 8 km stretch of the island’s mangrove-fringed white sand shoreline.

Qasr al-Hosn aka Al Hosn Palace, in the heart of the city is the oldest building here. Constructed in 1793 as the official residence of Abu Dhabi’s rulers, the fort was renovated in 1983. Surrounded by manicured lawns and well-maintained gardens, the fort is well worth a visit.

The Abu Dhabi Cultural Foundation, housed in a delightful modern building of Islamic design boasts several arching white colonnades, cool courtyards and green gardens. The foundation houses a large library stocked with 800,000 volumes and more than 250 English and Arabic journal subscriptions, a modern air-conditioned theatre, six lecture rooms, an exhibition centre and coffee shop. The centre also hosts cultural events such as music concerts, classic film festivals, art exhibitions and workshops.

The Abu Dhabi Heritage Village is one of the most popular tourist attractions in the city. Situated on a 1,600 sq. metre site overlooking the Corniche, it offers a feel of traditional life in Abu Dhabi before oil revenues transformed the country, economically and socially. In addition to bedouin tents, there are reconstructions of palm (arish) and other houses, old fishing villages and traditional souqs.

The Women’s Handicraft Centre is another must-see if you are interested in local crafts. Run by the Abu Dhabi Women’s Association, it displays wares ranging from perfumed oils to local costume and pottery. Its quaint Arabic kitchen serves the region’s cuisine in a traditional ambience.

The Dhow harbour is a meeting point for sailing enthusiasts and hosts regular dhow races. Along the quay is a small market with interesting odds and ends.

Accommodation. Top-end (Dhs.1,300-16,000): Emirates Palace Hotel, Bab Al Shams Desert Resort and Spa, Al Hamra Plaza Residence. Mid-Range (Dhs.400-800): Al Ain Palace Hotel, Al Raha Beach Hotel, Al Rawda Rotana Suites. Budget (Dhs.100-400): Al Maha Rotana Suites, Novotel Centre Hotel, Golden Tulip Al Jazira. (NB: Dh 1=Rs.13)

Jebel Hafit mountains in Al Ain

Apart from forts and mountains there are other interesting tourist attractions in Al Ain. Among them: Al Ain Oasis sited amidst a date plantation is divided into several small date farms and is accessible by foot and car. The Al Ain Zoo and Aquarium is the largest in the Middle East region. Sprawling over 400 hectares, the zoo is home to a wide variety of animals from Africa, India and Arabia and its huge aquarium houses an interesting collection of aquatic life.

The Al Ain Museum houses an extensive archaeological and ethnographical collection, including some beautiful gold pendants and an impressive coin collection besides a large collection of gifts received by the president from visiting statesmen and royalty. The century old Eastern Fort within the compound of Al Ain Museum is the ancestral home of the ruling family. Surrounded by a tall wall with four watchtowers it has cannons flanking its impressive doorway.

Notable among the 42 forts that dot Al Ain is the Jahili Fort — a large restored fort set in its own grounds with a distinctive corner turret and the Mujairib Fort comprising a main and smaller fort, a watchtower, surrounded by a park and children’s playground.

Accommodation. Top-end (Dhs.500-1,000): Intercontinental Palm Oasis Resort, Hilton International, Al Ain Rotana Hotel. Mid-range and Budget (Dhs.200-500): Mercure Grand Jebel Hafeet, Green Desert Hotel,

Excursions from Al Ain. Hili Archaeological Park (10 km) is famous for its beautiful gardens built around several bronze and iron age sites, dating back to circa 2,500-400 BC. These sites also feature a number of antique buildings including the Grand Garden Tomb, a circular construction with three internal dividing walls housing the remains of over 200 ancients.

Jumeirah Beach, Dubai

The most famous tourist attraction here is perhaps the scenic Jumeirah Beach fringing which are a number of award winning hotels. Don’t miss the Dubai Museum sited in the precincts of the Al Fahidi fort located in Bur Dubai. The museum contains an impressive collection of weapons, traditional costumes, musical instruments and the courtyard features good examples of arish huts and wooden boats.

Another must-visit location is the Heritage and Diving Village featuring reconstructions of Dubai’s maritime past. Objects on display include a tented bedouin village with traditional weapons, chests and household utensils. Shops sell handicrafts and camel and donkey rides are sometimes available. Folk dance and music performances are staged from time to time. The village boasts a number of cafeterias and a seafood restaurant.

The fairly old style but exceptionally maintained Dubai Zoo which houses several rare species including the Arabian oryx, Gordon’s wildcat, Grevy’s zebra, Syrian bear and Arabian gazelle, is worth a visit. An evening stroll along Dubai Creek Waterfront offers visitors a glimpse into Dubai’s traditional maritime roots.

Accommodation. Top-end (Dhs.1,500-15,000): The Ritz Carlton, Oasis Beach Hotel, Shangri-La Hotel. Mid-range (Dhs.700-1,500): Bab Al Salams Desert Resort and Spa, Sofitel Dubai City Centre, Movenpick Hotel. Budget (Dhs.200-700): Golden Sands Hotel Apartments, Le Meridian Dar Al Sandos Hotel Apartments.

Excursions. Jebel Ali (30 km) houses a sprawling man-made port and the largest free trade zone in the Arab world. It is famous for its teeming souqs and supermarkets offering literally everything under the sun.

Jumeirah Archaeological Site (22 km), an affluent suburb to the south of Dubai city is the location of an important archaeological site dating to the early Islamic period. Large houses built of beach rock (farush) covered with lime plaster have been excavated at Jumeirah by a team from the Dubai Museum.

Fujairah beach scene: natural beauty

The most important landmark of the town is the 360-year-old Fujairah Fort. Sited on a hill at the edge of date gardens, the fort is surrounded by the remains of old town houses. The fort was severely damaged in the early 20th century by a British bombardment. Some restoration work has been done in the past, but recently renovations have been earnestly renewed to prepare the fort to house the artefacts now on display in Fujairah Museum.

Like the other emirates, Fujairah also has a Heritage Village sited close to the fort which has a good selection of traditional houses (arish) and fishing boats (shasha) made of palm fronds. The Fujairah Museum displays an interesting collection of local artefacts found in archaeological digs at Qidfa, Bithnah. The Ain Al Madhab Gardens aka the National Park is a mineral spa with chalet accommodation on the western edge of the town. It is an extensive park complete with playground, a heritage village displaying traditional costumes, pottery and cookware.

Accommodation. Top-end (Dhs.700-1,250): Le Meridian Al Aqah Beach Resort, Hilton Fujairah, Al Diar Siji. Mid-range and Budget (Dhs.200-700): Emirates Springs Hotel Apartments, Ritz Plaza Hotel.

Most visitors from the subcontinent dazzled by the malls and shopping arcades of Dubai and Sharjah don’t know it. But the UAE also offers exceptionally well-developed desert and water sports opportunities.

Desert safari line up

Desert safaris.

Diving and snorkelling. Peninsular UAE offers numerous diving and snorkelling locations to suit all levels of experience. Diving around reefs and wrecks all along the coast can be a stimulating experience. The best diving locales however are located off the coast of Khor Fakkan, where one can view abundant tropical fish and turtles. For diving permits/ training get in touch with the Emirates Diving Association (www. emiratesdiving.com).

Dune buggies. One of the most thrilling terrestrial adventure activities offered here is dune bashing on a buggy. Dune buggies are available on hire at several places such as Hatta, Nazwa dunes about 40 km from Dubai.

Wadi exploration and bashing. A wadi is a dry riverbed, often the location of rock pools and unexpected vegetation, especially up in the hills. Wadi bashing trips organised by local tour operators involve driving helter skelter over rocks and streams and are not for the faint hearted. Sometimes rides can become quite rough and there have been instances when vehicles have turned turtle injuring passengers.

Fishing. Sport fishing is another popular activity in the emirates. The waters along the coasts teem with several species of fish such as marlin, sailfish, barracuda, mackerel, tuna, jack and bonito. September to April is the best time for angling.

Srinidhi Raghavendra (Dubai)