Leisure & Travel

Scenic hills and dales of Himachal

Richly endowed with snowy peaks, green valleys, misty woods, azure lakes and flower-filled meadows, the tiny state of Himachal Pradesh is a traveller’s paradise

Shimla aerial view: famous landmarks

Riding high in the mighty

Comments Anil Kapoor, the Mumbai-based regional manager of the Himachal Pradesh Tourism Development Corporation (HPTDC): "We are trying to emulate the Kerala model, which has aggressively popularised and transformed the state into a tourism hotspot. Our efforts are aimed at making HP the most preferred destination for a varied profile of tourists. Indeed now HPTDC provides customised package tours to Himachal depending on individual needs and preferences."

After India attained its freedom at midnight on August 15, 1947, a Union territory of hill states was created comprising the regions contiguous to Simla (now Shimla), the summer capital of the British Raj. On November 1, 1966 the hill areas of Punjab were merged with the Union territory, and on January 25, 1971 Himachal Pradesh became a full-fledged state of the Republic of India with Shimla as its capital.

Himachal is a hydel powerhouse with its many dams harnessing fast-flowing rivers to generate electricity. The state ‘exports’ electricity to high productivity farmers in Punjab and Haryana and to industry across the northern plains. This is possible because it is the least urbanised state in India, its urban population accounting for less than 10 percent of the total. It has only 55 towns, of which only the capital, Shimla, has a population exceeding 80,000.

Sited in the lower ranges of the Himalayan mountains and surrounded by dense pine, deodar, oak and rhododendron forests, Shimla (7,276 ft. above mean sea level), is the capital of Himachal Pradesh. This charming hill resort town with its well-developed infrastructure, easy accessibility and numerous attractions, is arguably one of India’s most popular summer holiday destinations offering a host of splendid colonial edifices, quaint cottages, hiking trails and exhilarating walks. In winter (November-February), the temperature can drop below freezing point but the summer months (April-July) are cool and pleasant.

Shimla is justly famous for its landmarks of tourist interest. Among them: The Ridge — a large open space in the heart of town; Lakkar Bazar situated just off the Ridge and well known for its woodcraft and souvenirs; Jakhoo Hill (8,101 ft) is the town’s highest point, with commanding views of the valleys below. The hill crowned with a Hanuman temple and interspersed with several paths and walkways, is ideal for meandering and trekking.

Christ Church and St. Michael’s Cathedral, located just off the Mall is the second oldest church in north India, adorned with fine stained glass of cruciform design. The State Museum houses an impressive collection of archaeological artefacts, carvings, paintings and sculptures drawn from Himachal Pradesh’s rich heritage. Also worth a visit is the Indian Institute of Advanced Study, housed in a magnificent English renaissance structure and formerly the residence of the British viceroy Lord Dufferin.

There are several points of interest on the outskirts of Shimla, accessible for weekend and day options. Not to be missed are: Wildflower Hall (13 km) with its mountain flowers and magnificent views; Kufri (16 km), notable for its wide ski slopes, ideal for amateurs as well as advanced skiers. Prospect Hill and Kamna Devi temple (6 km) offer impressive views.

Naldehra golf course: idyllic panorama

Naldehra

Chail (43 km) was once the summer capital of the Maharaja of Patiala and sports the highest cricket ground in the world. The verdant forests around Chail are alive with exotic species of birds and deer. Tattapani (51 km) is visited for its hot sulphur springs and their therapeutic properties.

Narkanda (64 km) situated at a height of 8,910 ft is a favourite ski resort. Himachal Tourism organises seven-day skiing packages inclusive of basic lessons from January to March every year.

Accommodation. Top-end: The Cecil (Rs.6,200-7,200 per night); The Oberoi Clarke (Rs.3,000-4,650); Wood Ville Palace Resorts (Rs.2,200-9,100); Spring Fields (Rs.2,400-6,200). Mid-range: Honeymoon Inn (Rs.1,100-2,600); Alpine Heritage Inn (Rs.1,500-2,200); Baljee’s Regency Inn (Rs.1,095-1,395). Budget: Hotel Pine View (Rs.500-1,500); Hotel Amber; Hotel Auckland (Rs.250-1,000).

Named after a british governor general of the 19th century, this gracious hill station (area 14 sq. km) scattered across five hills is replete with old world charm. Situated on the outer slopes of the Dhauladhar range in western Himachal, Dalhousie has a bracing climate and awesome Himalayan vistas. Surrounded by wooded slopes with a profusion of pine, deodar, oak and rhododendron trees, Dalhousie has a colonial charm, evident in its Victorian architecture, and historic churches. It also offers panoramic views of the river Ravi which shines like a long silver line twisting and turning as it weaves its way into the plains.

While in Dalhouse visit its several ancient churches, especially St. Andrew’s and St. Patrick’s at Balun (a former British cantonment) and St. Francis’ at Subhash Chowk.

Other sites of interest include Panchpula, a picturesque spot where a stream feeds a series of pools around a monument constructed to commemorate freedom fighter Sardar Ajit Singh.

Excursions. A favourite family get-away is the Kalatop Wildlife Sanctuary (10 km), abounding with several species of exotic wildlife like the ghoral or barking deer, kalij and chir, and the Himalayan black bear. Khajjiar (27 km) is an enchanting saucer-shaped grassy meadow, 1.5 km long and 1 km wide, surrounded by dense deodar forests, with a lake in the middle. Trekking and hiking to Satdhara and Jagadri Ghat are popular weekend pursuits.

Accommodation. Top-end: Alps Holiday Resorts (Rs.1,200-2,600); Hotel Chanakya (Rs.1,200-1,950); Grand View Hotel (Rs.1,400-2,400); Guncha Siddhartha (Rs.1,000-2,200). Mid-range: Sylvan Resorts (Rs.750-1,100); Hotel Silverton (Rs.800-1,500); Hotel Shangrila (Rs.800-1,400). Budget: Avondale Guest House (Rs.500-1,000); Hotel Geetanjali (Rs.550-700); Hotel Manimahesh (Rs.800-1,000).

Sited on a spur of the Dhauladhar range amidst magnificent deodar and pine forests and tea gardens, is this administrative capital of Kangra district. Since 1960, when it was transformed into the temporary headquarters of the Dalai Lama after he fled the Chinese occupation of Tibet, Dharamsala has been known as Little Lhasa. Lower Dharmsala is the civic and business area with the courts and the Kotwali Bazar, while upper Dharamsala includes interesting places like Mcleod Ganj and Forsyth Ganj which retain a British flavour.

Monastery in Dharamsala

The Kangra Art Museum, situated in Kotwali Bazaar is a treasure trove of the valley’s arts and crafts including Kangra’s famous miniature paintings. Also worth a visit is Kunal Pathri with its rock-cut temple dedicated to a local goddess; McLeod Ganj for its Tibetan institutions and the Buddha temple located opposite the abode of his holiness, the Dalai Lama; and the Tibetan Institute of Performing Arts (TIPA) which showcases a number of musical, dance and theatrical traditions of Tibet.

For those with aches, pains, maladies and morbidity, The Tibetan Medical and Astro Institute which includes a hospital with an outpatient clinic, medical and astrological colleges is an attraction. The institute is engaged in clinical research on traditional Tibetan curatives. A contigu-ous pharmacy offers over 200 medications compounded with herbs, gems, metals and minerals professing miracle cures, and medical and astrological charts.

Excursions. From Dharamsala there are several interesting excursion options within a few hours of travel. Among them Chamunda Devi (16 km), an ancient temple thronged by thousands of pilgrims from all over the state; Triund (17 km), at the foot of the Dhauladhar range, with breathtaking views of snowy peaks and the valleys below. Another must-see is Kangra (18 km) located at the confluence of the Neber and Majhi rivers, famous for its Brajeshwari temple.

Accommodation. Top-end: Surya Resort (Rs.1,400-2,500); Jukaso Palace (Rs.1,800-2,000); Hotel Himqueen (Rs.1,250-1,750). Mid-range: Hotel Dhauladhar (Rs.600-900); Hotel Kashmir House (600-1,000); Yatri Niwas (Rs.600-700). Budget: Chinar Lodge; Rose Hotel (Rs.500-900); Hill View Hotel; Rising Moon Hotel (Rs.400-600).

Beas flowing through Manali

Within Manali stroll around the Brighu Lake and the Hadimba Devi Temple. The latter was built in 1553, and boasts a superbly crafted four-tiered pagoda roof with an exquisitely carved doorway. The Manu Temple and Vashisth are well known for hot springs and old temples.

Excursions. Trekking, sporting and mountaineering facilities are available for outdoor enthusiasts. Solang Valley (14 km), a picturesque spot offers ski slopes and picnic spots. Towards Rohtang Pass, on the road to Keylong, the headquarters of the Lahaul and Spiti district of Himachal Pradesh, is Nehru Kund (6 km), a clear water spring named after the late Jawaharlal Nehru. Also on this route is Kothi (12 km), a serene little village with a thrilling view of the deep gorge through which the river Beas races swiftly. The Rahalla Falls (16 km) cascade down from an altitude of 8,250 ft and the Rohtang Pass at a height of 13,134 ft is the crucial link to the old trade route and is still the gateway to trans Himalayan Lahaul.

Accommodation. Top-end: Ambassador Resorts (Rs.2,850-7,250); Banons Resorts (Rs.1,800-3,400); De Vivendi Resorts (Rs.1,800-3,200); Holiday Inn Manali (Rs.3,650-4,250). Mid-range: John Banons Hotel (Rs.700-2,200); Mountain Top (Rs.1,200-1,800); Hotel Kunzam (Rs.1,100-1,700); Hadimba Cottages (Rs.1,650); Budget: Hotel Grand View (Rs.300-750); Hotel Beas (Rs.250-700).

Kullu (4,026 ft) was earlier known as Kulanthapitha — the end of the habitable world. Beyond, rise the forbidding heights of the Greater Himalayas, and by the banks of the frothing river Beas is the fabled Silver Valley. Kullu got its first motorable road only after independence. The long centuries of seclusion have allowed the region to retain a considerable measure of its traditional charm. Kullu is at the centre of an intricate web of valleys — each of which is a visual delight and seems more beautiful than the other.

While at Kullu visit the Bijli Mahadev, Raghunath and Basheshwar Mahadev temples.

Manikaran hot springs: pilgrimage centre

Excursions.

Accommodation. Top-end: Apple Valley Resort (Rs.2,200-3,200); Hotel Aroma Classic (Rs.550-1,500). Mid-range: Alankar Guest House; Blue Diamond; Central Hotel; Hotel Chinar (Rs.300-1,000). Budget: Hotel Amit; Himalayan Tourist Hotel; Hotel Horizon (Rs.350-700).

Solang Valley skii slope

The Kullu valley offers ample opportunities for trout fishing in the river Beas and its larger tributaries. Larji, Banjar, Garsa and Kasol are popular places with anglers. Some of the best soft, medium and hard term trekking is available in the valley.

Situated 3.5 km from Dharamsala at an altitude of 4,121 ft is the pleasant little town of Palampur. Surrounded on all sides by verdant tea gardens, and numerous streams and brooks criss-crossing its landscape, Palampur offers beautiful vistas of snow-capped peaks.

A must-see monument here is the Church of St. John in the Wilderness. Located at a height of 6,600 ft, this attractive colonial church is surrounded by poinsettias and has several memorial tablets of the British. The Temple of Bundla Mata is another attraction.

Excursions. One of the most popular excursions from Palampur is to Neughal Khud, a 305 m wide chasm, through which the Bundla stream gushes. Nearby is the charming village of Andretta (13 km) where Mrs. Norah Richards, a pioneer of rural theatre in India and an ardent disciple of Mahatma Gandhi lived.

Baijnath (16 km) has a Shiva temple, one of the most remarkable monuments of the Kangra Valley.

Accommodation. Top-End: High Land Regency; Masand Motel (Rs.2,400). Mid-range: Ayodhya Guest House; Begum Guest House (Rs.1,050-1,250). Budget: Hotel T-Bud (Rs.650-1,000).

For further information contact HPTDC on email hptdcmkt@vsnl.net or visit www.hptdc.nic.in.

Mona Barbhaya